Quick disconnect - This involves cutting the pre-existing wiring loom, but instead of soldering on the E3D components, using connectors to allow for future modifications. Patchwork replacement - This involves cutting the pre-existing wiring loom and soldering the E3D components onto the loom, this maintains the existing wiring loom and connections to the board (as long as you match the components and wires.)Ħ.3. The board connections may not be perfectly matched and a dab of hot glue may be required to ensure a solid connection.Ħ.2. Complete wiring replacement - This involves removing the old temperature sensor, heater cartridge extruder motor cable, part cooling fan and heatsink fan and disconnecting the pre-existing wires from the board, replacing them all with the supplied E3D parts. However, ultimately this is down to your level of confidence.ĭouble-check to make sure the power lead is disconnected from mains and the printer is turned off before making ANY modifications to the electronics.Ħ.1. Dupont and Molex Connectors work well for this application. Internally at E3D we often choose to have a break in the wiring loom to make changing HotEnds, Extruders or switching out components as easy as possible.

When it comes to the wiring there are a number of possible choices. Leave the HotEnd loose at this point, the wiring options will be addressed later on. Unscrew the x2 M3 x 16 screws that fasten the heatsink to the x carriage using a 2mm hex key. Unscrew the x2 M3 x 5 screws that fasten the hotend cover in place using a 2mm hex key.Īgain due to the attached hotend fan you will need to leave this part loose for the time being, this will be addressed later on.ĥ. There are several options available later regarding wiring.Ĥ. Leave the part cooling fan loose for now.

Unscrew the X4 M2 x 8mm screws that fasten the Part cooling fan onto the hotend carriage. Remove the Bowden (PTFE) tube from both the extruder and hotend.ģ. Turn off the power and unplug the kettle/ IEC lead.ĭo not attempt disassembly when the hot end is still hot.ĭo not attempt disassembly when the printer is connected to a power source.Ģ. The fan duct is a remix of the Permanoob version that can be found here.ġ. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.

Your HotEnd and your printer are your responsibility.

If you are unsure double check the rating on your power supply.

Connecting 12v parts to a 24v power supply can result in overheating, component damage, or fire.

All of our current heater cartridges should have the voltage and wattage laser engraved on the cartridge.

Make sure you have ordered and received the correct voltage heater and fan to match your printer's power supply.

For more information, please see V6 Firmware Guides.

The firmware modification is not optional.

Please see the V6 Max Temperature Rating Guide for more information.

The standard Hemera can print up to 285☌, do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the relevant components.

Be aware when you heat your new HotEnd not to burn yourself on the heater block nozzle or heater cartridge.

Don't work on your printer while it is plugged in or turned on.

E3d hemera alternative